Upper Porto, March 21, 2023



 Porto is definitely a city (population about 240,000) as the traffic is constant and construction is all around us.   The good news is that the old town is fairly compact, the bad news is that its very hilly as it rises up from the Douro River.  Tourist guides separate Porto into three parts: Upper Porto-The City Center which sits at the top of the hill; Lower Porto which takes us downhill to the Douro riverfront known as  Ribeira (ree-Bayu-rah); Gaia which is the town across the river from Porto and houses all the port companies wine cellars.  Today we are exploring the city center which is also where we are staying. 


Clerigos Church and Tower was completed in 1748 in the Baroque style.  At 76m (249ft) it is the tallest tower in Portugal.  White tuk-tuks line the street waiting to take tourists on tours of the city.  

Completed in 1768, the Rocco style Carmo Church is actually two churches.  On the right is Carmo Church, once inhabited by friars; on the left is the Carmelite church with its bell tower that once housed an order of Carmelite nuns.  There is a 3 story "hidden house" separating the two church buildings that is only 1m wide and was used as living quarters for the Carmo Church Chaplin's.  The blue glazed tiles were added in 1912.

Looking down the traffic-free Rua Das Flores, one of Porto's main tourist streets filled with outdoor cafes and enticing shops.  Several buskers perform their specialties to the enjoyment of passers-by.  

The entry hall of the Sao Bento Train Station offers a spectacular showing of hand-painted tiles that showcase historical and folk scenes from the Douro region.  Originally a Benedictine convent it was nationalized and converted to the train station in the 1870's.  The tiles were added in 1916.  

                Porto's Neoclassical City Hall was started in 1920 and not completed until 1957.

In the heart of the pedestrian only "shopping street" Rua de Santa Catorina is the Church of Soles covered with 15,947 blue tiles.  The church was built in the early 1700's and was restored and enlarged in 1801 with the blue glazed tiles added in 1929.

It was time to head back to our apartment and get ready for our dinner reservation at Solar Moinho de Vento, a Porto restaurant since 1905.  It has a wonderfully traditional atmosphere and the food was excellent.  I had acorn fed Iberian pork strips grilled and served with mushrooms and black beans.  Rita had a hot pot of octopus and rice in a tomato/garlic/parsley broth.  We accompanied our dinner with a tasty bottle of their labelled house wine.  Thankfully, the restaurant was close to our apartment and our walk was mostly downhill.   







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