It rained most of the day yesterday, our last full day in Nazare so we stayed indoors reading and catching up on our computers. Today it was overcast but not raining as we packed up and headed out for our new destination, Coimbra, about a 2 hour drive away. We had just started our trip when the rains came again and we were driving in a downpour most of the way. However, by the time we arrived on the outskirts of Coimbra, the rains had stopped and the sun came out. We are staying at the lovely 22 room Sapientia boutique hotel. It's in a great location on the opposite side of the university walls but not easy to find, even with GPS. The first go around we missed the tiny alleyway entrance and had to make another loop around town as everything is one way in the old town due to the extremely narrow streets. When we arrived our room was not ready so we checked our luggage and headed to the university to take in the sights.
Coimbra (koo-EEM-brah) is culturally and historically second only to Lisbon. Its the birthplace of six kings and the seat of Portugal's oldest university, founded in 1290. The old town climbs up the side of a steep hill with the university perched on top.
View of old town Coimbra across the Mondega River and Santa Clara bridge
The entrance to the old university is via Porta Ferrea or Iron Gate which was built in the 17th century. The pieces of white cloth hanging from the gate are the remains of robes ripped and hung by exuberant students after graduating.
Coimbra's old university occupies a stately three-winged former royal palace. The clock tower, completed in 1733, and the grand hall with its Via Latina colonnade erected in 1777.
The Grand Hall where the universities major academic ceremonies takes place. This regally red room was originally the throne room of the royal palace and completed in 1655. The fine, old. painted ceiling features "Indo-Portuguese" themes, reminding students of Portugal's global reach.
St Michael's Chapel is stunning. The interior walls are covered in blue tiles that were installed in 1663 and the magnificent altarpiece in mannerist style was completed in 1605.
The highlight of the tour is King Joao's Library (Biblioteca Joanina) completed in 1727, it is considered one of Europe's best surviving Baroque libraries displaying over 40,000 books in 18th century splendor. Each visit lasts 20 minutes with half that time spent on the first two floors which house an academic prison and the overflow book floor. So you only have 10 minutes in the library itself and you cannot take pictures of the library itself. I have downloaded a picture that looks towards the end of the room which is divided into three sections.
It was time to head back to our hotel and check into our room which is quite spacious with a kitchenette and balcony. We will be very comfortable for the next couple of days.
Every day when the university bell tower strikes 6pm the hotel offers its guests a glass of wine from its own winery. We had a very lively discussion with Joel, our waiter, who was telling us all the sites we had to explore the next day.
We decided to book a table at the hotel's restaurant and we were not disappointed with our decision. We started off with a traditional Portuguese appetizer, grilled sardines with toast and garlic sauce. Very creative presentation and very tasty. For our main course Rita had grilled seabass and I had a traditional Portuguese dish that was a hearty stew with pieces of chicken breast and smoked chicken sausage on a bed of rice. Both were delicious.
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