Change of Plans, March 08, 2023

 We were supposed to be heading to the beach resort town of Cascais but due to the current forecast of rain and overcast skies for the Atlantic Coast of Portugal we decided to cancel our trip there and move inland to Evora where we could have a lot more options if the weather stayed as forecast.  

Evora (EH-voh-rah) is a 2.5 hour drive north of Lagos in the heart of Alentejo province.  It's the hottest part of Portugal and in the summer is very arid and dry with temperatures in the 40's (104f) but today when we arrived it was overcast and 17c (63f).  Driving from Lagos to Evora we drove past groves of cork and olive trees as well as many wineries, cattle and sheep ranches.  Evora has a well preserved old town, partially enclosed by 2km of medieval walls.  It has been an important and prosperous town for over 2,000 years.  Romans, Moors and Portuguese Kings have all left their mark here.  Evora's Old Town's centuries old streets are very narrow with cobbled stone pathways which are well preserved and protected by law.  We are staying for 3 nights in a delightful 22 room boutique hotel inside Old Town that used to be a 16th century olive mill.  After checking in we unpacked, showered and headed to Bistro Barao, a restaurant recommended by the hotel.  It was a very small place with only 6 tables but the food was delicious. 

We stopped to stretch our legs in the village of Alvito as we saw this castle from the road and wanted to check it out.  The castle was started in 1494 and fully completed in 1548.  The first major restoration was completed in 1834 and in 1993 the second major renovation was completed as the castle was turned into a luxury hotel.


                                One of the many olive groves we passed on our way to Evora

The Alentejo region is known for its cork and it comes from the bark of the cork oak.  After 25 years, the outer bark is stripped from the trunk, leaving a "wound" of red-colored "blushing" inner bark.  It takes nine years for the bark to grow back and then its harvested again.  A cork tree keeps producing for more than 100 years.  Portugal produces half of the worlds supply of cork.

            Our very comfortable room for three nights at the Albergaria do Calvario boutique hotel.

On our way to dinner we passed by a university student club performing Fado music in the local square.  Fado music is a form of Portuguese singing accompanied by guitars and often associated with pubs, cafes and restaurants.  The performers wear black capes, hats and suits.  The banners show the clubs name and logo. 

             I had the cod fish and shrimp pie for as my main course and it was very flaky and flavorful

Rita enjoyed the very tender, lightly battered Octopus with salad.  And of course we washed it all down with a very nice local white wine.

After dinner we took a stroll through old town as we were so full.  We ended up at the remains of the Roman Temple that was built in the first century AD before heading back to our hotel.  We will be ready to fully explore Evora tomorrow. 
   




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